Span 60

✦ Reliable lipophilic emulsifier with an HLB value of 4.7, ideal for water-in-oil emulsions
✦ Produces rich, creamy textures in cold creams, body butters, and protective balms
✦ Works synergistically with Tween 60 to create stable emulsions across a broad HLB range
✦ Provides mild thickening and viscosity-building properties in oil-phase formulations
✦ Enhances freeze-thaw stability and overall shelf life of emulsified products
✦ Derived from sorbitol and stearic acid, suitable for natural and vegan-friendly formulations
✦ Non-irritating at recommended levels, making it compatible with sensitive skin products

Span 60, known chemically as Sorbitan Monostearate, is a nonionic surfactant produced by the esterification of sorbitol with stearic acid. It has been a staple emulsifier in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries for decades, valued for its ability to create and stabilize water-in-oil emulsions. Its waxy solid form melts readily into oil phases during the heating stage of emulsion preparation.

What makes Span 60 particularly useful is its low HLB value of 4.7, which gives it strong affinity for the oil phase. This makes it the go-to emulsifier for rich, occlusive products like cold creams and barrier balms. When combined with its hydrophilic counterpart Tween 60, formulators can engineer emulsions at virtually any target HLB, giving extraordinary control over product texture and stability.

Rabibazaar supplies cosmetic-grade Span 60 suitable for DIY beauty enthusiasts, soap makers, cosmetic students, and professional formulators.

INCI Name : Sorbitan Stearate
Chemical Name : Sorbitan Monostearate
CAS Number : 1338-41-6
Molecular Formula : C24H46O6
Appearance : Cream to tan waxy solid or flakes
Odor : Mild, characteristic fatty odor
pH (1% solution) : Not Applicable (oil soluble, nonionic)
Solubility : Soluble in oils and warm alcohols; dispersible in warm water
Specific Gravity : 1.00 to 1.03 (at 25°C, melted)
Flash Point : > 149°C (300°F)
HLB Value : 4.7
Recommended Use Level : 1% to 10% depending on formulation type
Type : Nonionic lipophilic emulsifier
Shelf Life : 24 months when stored properly

Skincare (Creams, Serums, Lotions)
★★★★★ — Span 60 excels in W/O creams and cold creams, delivering rich protective textures. Use at 3% to 5% in the oil phase, paired with Tween 60 for balanced O/W systems.

Body Care (Scrubs, Butters, Balms)
★★★★★ — Outstanding in body butters and barrier balms where occlusive, thick textures are desired. Melt into the oil phase at 4% to 8% for maximum creaminess and stability.

Haircare (Conditioners, Masks, Pomades)
★★★★☆ — Works well in hair pomades, conditioning balms, and thick hair masks needing W/O stability. Use at 2% to 5% for smooth spreadability without heavy residue.

Soap Making (Melt and Pour Additives)
★★☆☆☆ — Limited direct use in soap making since saponification disrupts emulsifier function. Can be used in syndet bars or lotion bars at 2% to 4% for texture improvement.

Functional Cosmetics (Deodorants, Sunscreen, Baby Care)
★★★★☆ — Excellent in stick deodorants and W/O sunscreens where water resistance is critical. Use at 3% to 6% to maintain emulsion integrity and ensure even active distribution.

In my formulation work, I always think of Span 60 not as a standalone emulsifier but as half of a system. The real power of Span 60 emerges when you pair it with Tween 60 at calculated ratios to hit a precise target HLB for your oil phase. This Span-Tween system gives you far more control over droplet size, viscosity, and long-term stability than any single emulsifier can provide. I reach for Span 60 whenever I want that classic cold cream feel — dense, protective, and luxuriously smooth.

ADVANCED TIP: To formulate a stable W/O cold cream, use Span 60 at 5% combined with Tween 60 at 1% (targeting an HLB of approximately 7 to 8 for mineral oil systems). Heat both phases to 70°C to 75°C, add the water phase slowly into the oil phase with continuous high-shear mixing, then switch to gentle paddle stirring below 40°C to avoid air incorporation and achieve a smooth, dense texture.

Normal Skin : ★★★★★ — Produces well-balanced W/O creams that protect without feeling heavy.
Dry Skin : ★★★★★ — Excellent occlusive emulsions lock in moisture and strengthen the skin barrier.
Oily Skin : ★★☆☆☆ — W/O emulsions may feel too rich and occlusive for already oily complexions.
Combination : ★★★☆☆ — Best used in targeted products for drier zones rather than full-face application.
Sensitive Skin : ★★★★☆ — Nonionic nature means low irritation risk, though patch testing is still advised.
Mature Skin : ★★★★★ — Rich emulsions deliver deep nourishment and support aging skin barrier function.
Acne-Prone : ★★☆☆☆ — Occlusive W/O formulations may trap sebum and aggravate breakout-prone skin.

CONCEPT 1: Classic Rose Cold Cream
Usage Level : 5%
Key Ingredients: Mineral Oil, Beeswax, Tween 60, Rose Water
Result : A rich, traditional cold cream that melts on contact, dissolves makeup, and leaves skin soft and protected.

CONCEPT 2: Cocoa Barrier Body Butter
Usage Level : 6%
Key Ingredients: Cocoa Butter, Shea Butter, Sweet Almond Oil, Tween 60
Result : A thick, deeply nourishing body butter with excellent water resistance ideal for dry winter skin.

CONCEPT 3: Zinc Oxide Sunscreen Base (W/O)
Usage Level : 4%
Key Ingredients: Zinc Oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tween 60, Dimethicone
Result : A water-resistant W/O sunscreen base that holds zinc oxide evenly dispersed for uniform UV protection.

INCI Declared : Yes — required for all cosmetic products listing ingredients
EU Cosmetics Reg : Permitted — no specific restriction, allowed as cosmetic emulsifier
Rinse-Off Limit : No limit established
Leave-On Limit : No limit established
Allergen Alert : No — not a recognized allergen under EU or IFRA guidelines
Skin Safety : Safe at recommended levels (1% to 10%)
Eye Area Use : Use with caution — may cause mild irritation in sensitive eye area
Ingestion : Not for internal use
Pregnancy Use : Safe — no known concerns at cosmetic use levels
Child Safety : Safe for children above 3 years at standard use levels
Ventilation : Not required under normal handling conditions
Storage : Cool dry place, away from direct sunlight and moisture
Container : HDPE or PET containers; glass acceptable; avoid prolonged contact with reactive metals

Working pH Range : 3.0 to 10.0 (nonionic, stable across a wide pH range)
Heat Stability : Stable up to 80°C; melts at approximately 53°C to 57°C for incorporation
Freeze-Thaw Stable : Yes — contributes to freeze-thaw stability of finished emulsions
Emulsion Type : W/O primarily; O/W when combined with high-HLB co-emulsifiers
Emulsification Phase: Hot phase (must be melted into the oil phase before emulsification)
Compatible With : Polysorbates (Tween series), fatty alcohols, waxes, silicones, mineral oils
Incompatible With : Strong oxidizing agents; may show reduced performance with very high electrolyte concentrations
Oxidation Risk : Low — inherently stable, but finished products with unsaturated oils should include antioxidant
Discoloration Risk : Possible — may yellow slightly if stored in heat or exposed to light over extended periods
Formulation Notes : Always melt Span 60 fully into the oil phase at 70°C to 75°C before combining phases. Incomplete melting leads to grainy texture and poor emulsion stability.

Q: What is Span 60 and what does it do in cosmetics?
A: Span 60 is a nonionic emulsifier derived from sorbitol and stearic acid. It stabilizes water-in-oil emulsions and gives products a rich, creamy texture. It is commonly used in cold creams, body butters, and protective balms.

Q: How do I use Span 60 with Tween 60?
A: Span 60 (HLB 4.7) and Tween 60 (HLB 14.9) are blended at calculated ratios to achieve any target HLB between 4.7 and 14.9. Use the HLB equation: % Span 60 = (14.9 minus target HLB) divided by (14.9 minus 4.7), then multiply by 100. This system gives precise control over emulsion type and stability.

Q: Can I use Span 60 alone without Tween 60?
A: Yes, Span 60 can be used alone for W/O emulsions where a low HLB is needed. However, for O/W emulsions or finer textures, pairing with a high-HLB co-emulsifier like Tween 60 produces significantly better results and long-term stability.

Q: At what temperature should I add Span 60 to my formulation?
A: Span 60 must be melted into the oil phase at 70°C to 75°C before combining with the water phase. It has a melting point of approximately 53°C to 57°C, so incomplete melting will cause graininess and emulsion failure.

Q: How does Span 60 compare to Span 80?
A: Span 60 (Sorbitan Stearate, HLB 4.7) is a waxy solid that produces thicker, more stable emulsions ideal for creams and butters. Span 80 (Sorbitan Oleate, HLB 4.3) is a liquid with slightly lower HLB, better suited for fluid W/O emulsions and spray formulations. Span 60 offers superior viscosity building and freeze-thaw stability.

Product evaluation

Review the specifications, supplied grade, intended use and compatibility of Span 60 before ordering for production. Test a small quantity in the actual application and document the result before scaling.

Quality control

Inspect the received batch for expected appearance, odor, texture, packaging condition and labeling. Keep supplier and batch records, use accurate measurements, and retain a reference sample when the material is used commercially.

Storage and responsible use

Store tightly closed in a clean, cool and dry location away from direct sunlight. Follow the current supplier instructions and all safety, labeling and regulatory requirements that apply to the intended finished product.