Iso E Super

✦ Synthetic woody-cedarwood aroma chemical developed by IFF in the 1970s with a unique abstract, velvet-like character.
✦ Famous for its skin-scent effect — it amplifies the wearer's natural skin chemistry rather than projecting loudly.
✦ Key fixative and booster — extends the life of other notes and adds depth without dominating a blend.
✦ Star ingredient in Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules, Terre d'Hermès by Hermès, and Bois du Portugal by Creed.
✦ Exceptionally versatile — works in fine fragrance, attars, functional fragrance, home fragrance, and hair care.
✦ 100% vegan and cruelty-free synthetic material with consistent batch-to-batch quality.
✦ Low odour detection threshold for many users — functions as an invisible woody backbone that makes entire blends smell richer.

Iso E Super is a synthetic aroma chemical belonging to the cedryl family, first developed by IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances) in the early 1970s and patented in 1973. It is technically classified as OTNE — 7-acetyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-1,1,3,3-tetramethylnaphthalene — and is sold commercially as a mixture of isomers. Since its introduction, it has become one of the most widely used synthetic fragrance ingredients in the world, prized for its abstract woody quality that bridges the gap between natural cedarwood and modern skin-scent perfumery.

What sets Iso E Super apart from other woody materials is its almost paradoxical olfactory behaviour. Many people can barely detect it at standard concentrations, yet its presence fundamentally transforms the character of a blend — adding warmth, roundness, and diffusion. At higher concentrations it reveals a rich cedar-and-spice facet. This dual nature has inspired an entire sub-genre of minimalist perfumery, most famously demonstrated by Escentric Molecules' Molecule 01, a fragrance built from nearly pure Iso E Super. Its synergistic relationship with skin chemistry means each person smells it differently, giving it a uniquely personal quality.

Rabibazaar supplies cosmetic-grade Iso E Super suitable for fine fragrance construction, attar blending, hair care formulations, body care products, and home fragrance applications including reed diffusers and candles.

SCENT DESCRIPTION
Iso E Super opens with a clean, dry cedarwood facet that quickly settles into something more abstract and velvety. It carries a softly spicy undertone reminiscent of pencil shavings and warm bark. At skin temperature it becomes almost imperceptible to some noses, while others detect a smooth, amber-tinged wood with a faint radiant quality. The overall impression is of a forest floor in warmth — dry, refined, and deeply intimate.

NOTE POSITION : Base / Mid-Base

FRAGRANCE FAMILY : Woody · Amber-Woody · Cedar

FACETS : Cedarwood · Velvety · Dry-Spicy · Abstract · Skin-Like

TENACITY : High — 16 to 24 hours on skin and fabric

SILLAGE : Low to Medium — projects subtly and intimately rather than loudly, creates a personal scent bubble rather than a wide sillage trail

Chemical Name : 1-(2,3,8,8-Tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-
octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethan-1-one
CAS Number : 54464-57-2
Synonyms : Iso E Super, Timbersilk, Javanol Cedar
Purity : ≥ 90% (gamma isomer dominant)
Appearance : Clear to pale yellow liquid
Odor Threshold : ~0.0065 mg/L (perceiver-dependent — anosmia common)
Solubility : Soluble in alcohol & carrier oils — insoluble in water
Specific Gravity: 0.960 – 0.975 @ 25°C
Flash Point : ~77°C
Type : Synthetic Aroma Chemical

Fine Fragrance : ★★★★★
Iso E Super is most at home in alcoholic fine fragrance. It can be used from 1% as a booster and fixative, or pushed to 30–60% as a primary note in minimalist woody constructions. It rounds edges, adds diffusion, and extends longevity of top and heart notes significantly.

Attar and Oriental Blending : ★★★★★
In attar and oriental composition, Iso E Super works beautifully beneath oud, rose, and sandalwood. It modernises heavy oriental bases without compromising their warmth. A 3–8% addition to a mukhallat base adds a contemporary woody transparency that differentiates the blend.

Hair Care and Functional Fragrance : ★★★★☆
Iso E Super performs well in shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in hair serums. It contributes a clean, woody freshness that survives rinsing at appropriate usage levels. Its substantivity on hair fibre is notably good for a synthetic woody material.

Cosmetics and Body Care : ★★★☆☆
Usable in body lotions, creams, and deodorants within IFRA guidelines. Its low sillage works in favour of rinse-off and leave-on skin products. Skin sensitisation is possible at high concentrations, so stay within recommended limits.

Home Fragrance : ★★★★☆
Excellent in reed diffusers and wax melts where its slow, sustained diffusion suits the application. In candles, performance is moderate — hot throw is good but flash point must be observed. Iso E Super gives room fragrance a sophisticated, abstract woody warmth.

RECOMMENDED USAGE RATES

Application : Suggested Rate
EDP : 5 – 30%
EDT : 3 – 20%
Body Lotion : 0.5 – 2%
Shampoo / Body Wash : 0.3 – 1.5%
Candle : 3 – 8%
Reed Diffuser : 5 – 20%
Bar Soap : 0.5 – 2%

IFRA 51ST AMENDMENT LIMITS (Approximate — verify with current IFRA guidelines)

Category 4 (Leave-on skin — body lotion, face cream) : 20% max
Category 5A (Hand cream, leave-on hand products) : 20% max
Category 6 (Lip products, mouthwash) : Restricted — not recommended
Category 9 (Rinse-off body — shower gel, shampoo) : Higher limit — verify
Category 11A (Candles, reed diffusers) : Not restricted — use at effective level

⚠️ Iso E Super is known to cause anosmia (temporary inability to smell it) in some users at high usage. This is not a safety concern but should be noted when evaluating blends.

⚠️ Skin sensitisation has been reported at very high concentrations. Keep leave-on skin applications within IFRA-stated limits.

⚠️ Always verify the most current IFRA 51st Amendment guidelines directly at ifrafragrance.org before finalising formulations.

METHOD 1 — Booster and Fixative (1–5%)
Add Iso E Super at 1–5% to any blend where you want to extend longevity and add a woody depth without changing the overall direction. It acts invisibly — boosting the performance of florals, citrus, and orientals without announcing itself.

METHOD 2 — Woody Base Construction (10–25%)
Use Iso E Super as the structural foundation of a woody or amber-woody base. Pair it with ambroxan, cashmeran, or a touch of vetiver to create a modern, skin-close base accord. This approach is used in many niche and designer woody-chypre fragrances.

METHOD 3 — Signature Minimalist Accord (30–60%)
At high concentrations, Iso E Super becomes the primary statement. Pair with a small amount of rose oxide or linalool to frame it. This is the Molecule 01 approach — stripping everything back to let the synthetic cedar and skin interaction speak. Best suited for experienced formulators.

BEST PAIRINGS

Ambroxan : Skin-scent synergy — both amplify each other and the wearer's natural warmth
Vetiver : Adds earthiness and green bite to balance Iso E Super's dryness
Cedarwood Atlas : Reinforces the natural cedar facet and adds creaminess
Sandalwood : Brings creaminess and sweetness — softens the dry abstract quality
Rose Absolute : Classic fine fragrance pairing — Iso E Super lifts and spreads the rose
Oud : Adds complexity beneath oud without overpowering — bridges Eastern and Western styles
Cashmeran : Creates a rich, velvety woody-musked accord with excellent tenacity
Bergamot : Freshens and brightens — classic modern fresh-woody construction

AVOID
Combining at very high percentages with other skin-sensitising materials without careful safety review.
Avoid using in any oral-contact or lip product application.

I have worked with Iso E Super extensively and it remains one of the most intellectually fascinating materials in the palette. Its behaviour defies the usual rules — the less you can smell it, the more it is doing. When I add it to a struggling blend, something shifts: the notes sit better, the transitions feel smoother, and the whole thing comes to life. It is less of an ingredient and more of a structural force.

ADVANCED TIP
To overcome the anosmia issue when evaluating Iso E Super-heavy blends, rest your nose completely for 10 minutes between assessments or ask a second nose to evaluate. For maximum skin-synergy effect, apply the fragrance to warm pulse points — the inside of the wrist and neck — and give it 20 minutes before assessing. Never evaluate it cold off a strip at full concentration. Also, try blending it with a micro-dose of Clearwood (0.5–1%) to sharpen its cedarwood facet and improve detectability without losing its abstract character.

Physical State : Liquid
Skin Safety : Use within IFRA limits. Patch test recommended for leave-on products. Avoid undiluted skin application.
Eye Contact : Avoid direct contact. Flush thoroughly with water for 15 minutes if contact occurs.
Ingestion : Not for internal use. Keep away from children. Seek medical attention if swallowed.
Ventilation : Use in a well-ventilated space when handling at scale. Avoid prolonged inhalation of concentrated vapour.
Storage : Store in a cool, dark location away from heat and direct sunlight. Ideal temperature 10–25°C.
Shelf Life : 2–3 years when properly stored in sealed containers. Quality may decline with repeated heat and air exposure.
Container : Store in original sealed container. Use aluminium, glass, or HDPE plastic. Avoid PVC.
Flammability : Combustible liquid. Flash point approximately 85–90°C. Keep away from open flame and ignition sources.

Q: What does Iso E Super smell like?
A: It has a dry, abstract cedarwood and woody character with a velvety, slightly spicy undertone. Many people find it difficult to smell directly — it works more as a skin enhancer than a loud note.

Q: Why can I barely smell Iso E Super even at high percentages?
A: Iso E Super causes selective anosmia in many people — meaning the nose adapts to it very quickly and stops detecting it. This is a known and harmless phenomenon. Step away, reset your nose for 10 minutes, then re-evaluate.

Q: At what percentage should a beginner start using Iso E Super?
A: Start at 2–5% in any blend. This gives you the boosting and fixative benefits without overwhelming your formulation. Increase gradually once you understand how it interacts with your other ingredients.

Q: Can Iso E Super be used in soap and shampoo?
A: Yes, but stay within IFRA guidelines and use at lower rates (0.5–2% for soap, 0.3–1.5% for shampoo). It performs reasonably well in rinse-off applications and adds a pleasant woody freshness to hair care products.

Q: How does Iso E Super compare to natural cedarwood essential oil?
A: Natural cedarwood (Atlas or Virginian) is warmer, creamier, and more immediately detectable. Iso E Super is more abstract, diffusive, and skin-interactive. They complement each other well — many perfumers use both together to get the best of both characters. Iso E Super offers superior tenacity and batch consistency versus natural cedarwood.

Professional formulation workflow

Iso E Super should be evaluated in a controlled small batch before production. Confirm the supplied grade, active concentration and recommended application range from the current supplier documentation. Weigh accurately instead of measuring by drops, record every adjustment, and compare the modified trial against an unchanged control.

Compatibility and quality checks

Test the ingredient in the actual alcohol, oil, surfactant, emulsion or wax base intended for sale. Observe clarity, separation, color, odor and performance immediately after mixing and again after a suitable resting period. A material that looks stable in a concentrate can behave differently in the finished formulation.

Scale-up and safety

Convert percentages into exact batch weights and verify the final consumer-product concentration before scaling. Follow the latest applicable IFRA, cosmetic, chemical and supplier safety documentation for the intended category. Use appropriate protective equipment, ventilation and clearly labeled containers, and retain a sample from every approved batch for quality comparison.